While I'm not the biggest surfer, it is a really cool and fun activity that everyone should try in their life. I usually hate the ocean but something about sitting there for hours sometimes waiting for the perfect wave to come by and then riding it smooth and fast is amazing. Well I've only tried a couple of times and it was more not at all smooth and slow, but never the less still a lot of fun.
I feel like riding a BMX bike I've always had to find the spots man has built to ride. Going to the skatepark, man build that, riding in the city, once again. Even trails someone has to build them. But as I get older and look at things like surfing, snowboarding, and skiing I realize they are amaznig because you are basically using whatever the earth and mother nature gives you. You don't go build a wave, you surf the wave your given and sometimes its not your day and mother nature slams you into the seafloor with the contant reminder that we can't control nature or the earth, we can only ride them for so long. Don't get me wrong I love BMX and like the fact that we put time and effort in to build things that we enjoy riding, but at the same time I feel like there is a while different feeling one gets from sports where you just take what mother nature gives you, ride with it, and see where you end up. It makes me feel happy to build trails also because everyone has to work with the landscape their given so they can be somewhat "natural."
So enjoy International Surfing Day and get out there if you can for me. I'm sure my cousins are out there right now surfing some secret break on the Cape. If you do go though watch out, theres some crazy shit in the ocean.
And if shark's don't scare you follow this link or watch the Discovery Channel special on Irukandji.